Wow! And we thought a two-day road trip was exciting!
The ferry was due to sail at 10.30 in the evening from Kyrenia to Tasucu. We had bought a cabin so that we would be able to get an early start after arriving in Turkey. Two days before setting off dad received a text, in Turkish of course, advising that for operational reasons the ferry would now be sailing at 2.30 in the afternoon.
Our leisurely journey would now be an early start and we estimated that a 6.30 start would give ample time to deal with all contingencies or should have been. How wrong you can be.
Dad was too cold with the roof down so I had to accept reluctantly that the roof would stay up for the early part of the journey. Dad’s neighbour Fraser saw us off and wished us well and took some memorable photos of our start.
We were aiming to cross the border at the sovereign base, Ayios Nichoais, which we thought might be easier and smoother with a car still registered on UK plates. Then approaching Larnaca realised we had taken the wrong turning towards Nicosia. Soon corrected without too much loss and we made good time to the border and passed through to the North without any problems. We bought our obligatory North Cyprus car insurance and had an entertaining conversation with a guy who thought his new Renault was more powerful than a 1968 MGC. Did we care?
But as we were to learn a couple of hours late it had been a little too easy.
We filled up with 98 Octane Esso and to be sure of a plentiful supply also filled a reserve 20 litre container as well. We at least had 98 octane fuel, or was it? The next day would turn out to question that assumption.
Lots of people want to see, photo or even sit in the car!
Paperwork Panic
Eventually got to the ferry port with 2 hours to spare before loading which was their requirement and the chaos began.
No organised queue, no signs and no idea where to go. I parked up and Dad went off to find where and how to check in. After talking to several people and going into numerous offices in two different building he was told he hasn’t got the right customs forms to take the car on the ferry. We had the car insurance, all documents on the car, ferry tickets and passports, what more did they want? Apparently, we should have been issued with a customs clearance document at the border crossing. I talked to the customs officials, but it wasn’t their job to issue it we were told we needed to go back to the border crossing some 70 miles away to get the right forms.
After some discussion, and recognition that that was impractical it was suggested we visit the nearest Customs office in Nicosia – and told us we could get there in twenty minutes. That seemed unlikely we spoke to the ferry company officials who told us we would have to be back no later than 1.30pm. We have less than one hour to get the forms and be back to get on the ferry! To say this would be tight would be an understatement.
We race to Nicosia and find ourselves at the wrong office. This is the main customs office and apparently, we need to visit a border crossing point. So off we go again.
This time we find helpful staff – someone even offered to swap his Mercedes for my MG. I don’t think so. But they can’t help us as we are at a pedestrian crossing, and we must visit a road crossing point to get the right paperwork. The customs officer did helpfully direct us to the right place.
When we reached the right crossing, we knew we are out of time. It is now past the latest time we must be back at the port, 1.30. Somewhat despondent and contemplating our options we continue, thinking at least we’ll be able to continue tomorrow – but deep down wondering if we have just taken on too much with this road trip.
In order to be issued the right forms, I had to drive the MG through the border crossing leaving Turkish Cyprus, only to do an assisted U turn in no man’s land and re-enter again so I could pass border control – this way they could comply with their procedures and issue the forms as we enter with the car.
Somewhat frustrated and exhausted, we decided to head back towards the port knowing that we’ve missed our ferry. Not sure what we will do. Perhaps just knowing we have the right paperwork and can proceed another day. Perhaps thinking we will book a local hotel and try again tomorrow. But also, seriously considering giving up and just going home.
We get back to the port of Kyrenia at 2:29pm – we know the ferry sails at 2:30.
Imagine our shock when we are told there is still time – So we join a long line of cars and make our way through the bizarre customs procedures in which they just stamp and keep the form we’ve spent hours obtaining, realising that it was of little or no value to them anyway. Then navigate through the chaos of parked vehicles to find the ferry. Once again no directions of signage.
At last, we can rest – have a sandwich for lunch safe in the knowledge we’ll be on our way to Turkey very soon. Then someone comes over to check our ticket and tells us we are queuing for the wrong ferry!
You need to be on that one (pointing to the other side of the harbour). So we race to the other ferry… becoming pretty much last car on board!
Phew!
When we boarded the ship, an ex-Finland ferry, we were directed to reverse down a very narrow slope into the bowels of the boat. Over an extremely steep ramp. In the course of which our exhaust grounded severely but thankfully without damage. More selfies for the helpful staff member. The only one who could speak a few words of English.
Round 2
Despite the planned sailing time of 2.30 the ferry eventually set sail after 5pm. We had booked a cabin, but they had no record even though we showed them the receipt. All arguments conducted via google translate and as a result now almost out of data, with no other access to internet, with none on the boat.
As we were coming into Tasucu with the little data available to me I managed, through booking.com, to find a hotel only a short distance from the ferry termional with a 24 hour reception.
After a very long ferry trip, we dock in Tasuçu at around 11:30. Both ready for bed, having got up at about 5am.
This trip was starting out badly. It could only go downhill from here.
There was a long wait to leave the ferry, and great difficulty getting the MGC over the top of the ramp. In the course of which the exhaust again grounded and we were convinced coming off the ferry that we had done considerable damage. Then I had to wait in a long queue at customs. After completing the necessary passport checks and being sent on our way we were stopped at the port exit by another document check who sent us back as we did not have complete documentation for the car. Back we went and I went into a police building to find queues of other travellers, Midnight, 1am, waiting, not knowing when we will be finished nor initially what I weas trying to get.
I then have to complete forms in Turkish, using google translate with my very limited data. Also found that we needed to reinsure the car for Turkey as the insurance we had only covered us in Northern Cyprus. I still can’t quite believe the chaos involved and that this process of simply passing through three check booths a few hundred yards apart took over three hours.
When we returned to the final gate at the port the officials who had previously sent us back for incomplete date did not even look at what we had just taken two hours to compile and just waved us through. We had served the obligatory three hour penance for choosing to enter the country so we could now go on our way.
An amazing day of bureaucratic madness, disorganisation, chaos and gross incompetence.
We FINALLY get to the hotel at 2:50am! We are very grateful to be in the Hotel and look forward to a good night’s sleep and a much later start tomorrow than planned, and the car was safely parked just below our window in a quiet and safe street.Paphos to Tasucu. A total of 218 miles covered today.